This section of the trip report is dedicated to our awesome tour leader Kora Petuela Kora from Manihiki. An avid pearl farmer, jeweler, automotive and marine engineer and ace of many other trades.
Kora Kora – locked up for being too nice at the Shark Bait Hotel, Pukapuka. It is in fact an old water tank the Policeman uses for the extremely rare instance of adults needed a ‘time out’
The Northern Group Atolls of Pukapuka, Nassau, Manihiki, Rakahanga, Penrhyn (Tongareva) and Suwarrow are some of the most inaccessible places left on this Planet, pre- and especially post-Covid. This is the product of their distance from Rarotonga, lack of sealed Airstrips and deep harbours, the self sufficiency of their inhabitants and very low population numbers.
The Northern Group Atolls of Pukapuka, Nassau, Manihiki, Rakahanga, Penrhyn (Tongareva) and Suwarrow are some of the most inaccessible places left on this Planet, pre- and especially post-Covid. This is the product of their distance from Rarotonga, lack of sealed Airstrips and deep harbours, the self sufficiency of their inhabitants and very low population numbers. These islands are also the ancestral home of my amazing friend Johnny Frisbie and I recognised her in the smiles and the eyes of the people of Pukapuka.
What a wonderful day away from it all. Started the day at 4:30 am, through Arutanga passage at the very first ray of light of the longest day of the year. Made good speed and arrived outside the narrow passage before 8. The capatin decided to try a little low speed trawling pass around that side of the Atoll to see if any fish would bite. None did but a pod of dolphins greeted the boat.
Snorkeling off the passage i saw the young man skin dive down to 18 meters and pass tools and equipment back and forth to the divers anchoring a mooring and noticed a school of hundreds of great trevally. Quite unusual for Apex predators to form such large schools.
On dry land, after a well orchestrated wiggle through the meandering, narrow and shallow passage we were surprised how well the corrugated aluminium survived 40+ years of abandonment – the climate has done its part and neatly separated them from the original timber framing including Tamanu.
There were numerous fresh turtle tracks indicating Manuae is still an important habitat for these majestic reptiles.
What were once neat Austrian conceived rows of coconut trees is now covered in dense foliage and Tamanu trees made a lot of progress. It was thus surpsising how few seabirds nest on Manuae. They seem to realise that Takutea, another 70 miles to the southeast is a much better choice due to the absence of rats.
Manuae Lagoon
Manuae Atoll
latest image
Turtle Tracks
Rarotonga International Airport
latest morning image
Motu Manuae
Rarotonga International Airport
latest lunch time image
16:00
Manuae Atoll
Bed of acquatic fungi that traps a lot of the fierce sun’s energy
A rare opportunity came along at beginning of the dry season in 2005 to drop off a new caretaker at Suwarrow Atoll aboard a research vessel with Diving Equipment. Gibo and Garth came along, Dr, Graham Wragg at the Helm with the able assistance of the Huub Van Buchem in the wheelhouse and especially the galley! It was important to have good time en route because the ‘vessel’ only made about six knot. What an amazing journey, the kind you do once and never want to do again because doing so might spoil or even just dilute the unforgettable memories.
